FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions

A well-maintained furnace typically lasts 15 to 20 years. Furnaces closer to the 20-year mark often lose efficiency and become more expensive to repair, even if they’re still running.

Check your filter monthly and replace it every 1 to 3 months, depending on the filter type and whether you have pets or allergies. A clogged filter restricts airflow and forces your furnace to work harder.

Book a professional furnace tune-up once a year, ideally in early fall before the heating season starts. Regular servicing catches small issues before they turn into breakdowns.

This usually points to a dirty filter, an ignition or pilot light problem, or the system running in fan-only mode. It can also happen briefly at the start of a heating cycle, before the heat exchanger warms up. If it continues past a minute or two, it’s worth having it checked.

This is called short cycling, and it’s often caused by a dirty filter, a furnace that’s oversized for the home, or a failing thermostat or flame sensor. It wastes energy and adds wear to the system, so it’s worth having a technician look at it.

As a rule of thumb, if the repair cost is more than half the price of a new furnace, or the unit is past 15 years old, replacement usually makes more financial sense. Frequent repairs and rising energy bills are other signs it’s time.

A central air conditioner typically lasts 12 to 15 years with regular maintenance. Units running past that range tend to lose efficiency and rely on refrigerant that’s harder to source.

Common causes include a refrigerant leak, a dirty condenser coil, a frozen evaporator coil, or a thermostat that isn’t communicating properly with the system. A technician can usually pinpoint the cause within one visit.

Have your AC serviced once a year, ideally in spring before the cooling season starts. This keeps coils clean, refrigerant levels correct, and electrical components in good shape.

Ice on the coil is usually caused by restricted airflow (a dirty filter or blocked vents), low refrigerant, or running the system when outdoor temperatures are too low. Turn the unit off and let it thaw completely before calling for service.

Weak airflow is often a dirty filter, blocked or closed vents, leaky or undersized ductwork, or a failing blower motor. Check the filter first, since that’s the easiest fix.

If your AC is over 12 years old, uses older refrigerant, or the repair quote is close to half the cost of a new unit, replacement is usually the better long-term investment.

Most homeowners find 24-26°C comfortable while keeping energy costs reasonable. Setting it much lower doesn’t cool the home faster, it just runs longer and costs more.

Yes. Cold-climate heat pumps are designed to keep working efficiently well below freezing, many rated to operate down to -25°C or lower. This is different from older, standard heat pump models, which lose efficiency faster in extreme cold.

A furnace burns gas or uses electric resistance to generate heat. A heat pump moves heat from the outside air into your home, and reverses in summer to cool it, typically using less energy per unit of heat delivered.

In many homes, yes, especially with a cold-climate heat pump. Some homeowners keep their furnace as backup for the coldest days, which is called a hybrid or dual-fuel system.

Cold-climate heat pumps continue producing heat below -20°C, though their output and efficiency gradually decrease. A backup heat source, like a furnace or electric coil, is recommended for the coldest days of the year.

It depends on the heat pump model and your home’s heat loss. Many homeowners pair a cold-climate heat pump with a furnace as backup, which gives efficient heating most of the year and reliable backup on extreme cold days.

Yes. This is called a hybrid or dual-fuel system, and it lets the heat pump handle most of the heating load efficiently while your furnace kicks in only during the coldest stretches.

Often, yes, since one system handles both heating and cooling and heat pumps generally move heat more efficiently than a furnace generates it. Actual savings depend on your electricity and gas rates, so it’s worth running the numbers for your home.

Twice a year: once for your furnace in fall, once for your air conditioner in spring. Heat pump systems that handle both heating and cooling should also be checked twice a year.

A tune-up typically covers cleaning components, checking refrigerant or gas pressure, testing electrical connections and safety controls, inspecting the blower motor, and replacing the filter if needed.

Uneven temperatures usually come down to duct design, insulation gaps, sun exposure, or a system that isn’t sized or zoned correctly for the home. A technician can identify which factor is at play in your case.

Generally, no. Closing too many vents can create pressure imbalances that strain your system and reduce efficiency. It’s usually better to address airflow issues at the source.

A sudden jump usually points to an aging or struggling system, a dirty filter, duct leaks, a thermostat issue, or a stretch of unusually extreme weather. Comparing bills to the same month last year helps rule out normal seasonal swings.

In most systems, no. Your system runs at the same output regardless of the target temperature, so setting it to an extreme just means it runs longer, not faster. It also risks overshooting the temperature you actually wanted.

Furnace size depends on square footage, insulation, window count, ceiling height, and local climate, not square footage alone. A proper heat-loss calculation gives an accurate size instead of guessing.

Like furnace sizing, AC sizing depends on your home’s cooling load, not just its square footage. An oversized unit cools unevenly and cycles too often, so a load calculation is worth doing before you buy.

Rebate programs change over time and can include utility programs such as Enbridge and Save on Energy, as well as manufacturer rebates, for high-efficiency furnaces and heat pumps. Atlantis can walk you through what’s currently available when you’re ready to upgrade.

It depends on your existing ductwork and insulation. Homes without ductwork often do well with ductless mini-splits, while homes with functional ducts may be good candidates for a hybrid furnace-heat pump system.

Look for a licensed, TSSA-certified contractor with clear written quotes, transparent pricing, and solid local reviews. A contractor who does a proper in-home assessment before quoting is a good sign.

Watch for rising repair frequency, a system older than 12-15 years, noticeably higher energy bills, and uneven heating or cooling. If repair costs start approaching half the price of a new system, replacement is usually the smarter move.